Reference Guide
We've compiled this handy fact sheet to help you understand more about the cleaning methods used for natural skins, the differences between leather types, and the finishes that determine how a piece behaves under treatment.
General
Leather and suede garments may contain as many as 8 animal skins. The skins are matched as best as possible during the manufacturing process, but changes may occur to individual skins during cleaning.
Dyes used during the tanning process of skins may not be colour-fast, and some degree of colour loss or colour change is normal.
Natural defects in skins such as scars, bite marks or skin disorders may be covered up during the tanning process, but often become apparent following cleaning.
Certain types of stains are impossible to remove without the risk of damage to the skin. These include, but are not limited to: ink, milk, blood, egg, urine, vomit and deep soiling.
Most suede skins will fade when exposed to natural light. This may become more apparent after cleaning.
Over-exposure to heat and/or moisture can cause some leather and suede items to become tender, stiff or brittle.
Cleaning will greatly improve the appearance of a soiled item, but cannot restore it to its original condition.
Many leather and suede items now contain glues and/or adhesives to aid manufacturing. These glues and adhesives are often not compatible with the necessary cleaning processes, and staining may occur on the surface of the skin.
Following cleaning, it is very possible that leather and suede items may be subject to change of colour, texture and finish.
The above risks are greatly increased the more a leather or suede item is cleaned.
Please Note
We recommend the use of our consent forms for any items that are sent to us for treatment. These consent forms help manage expectations and highlight all possible risks associated with the cleaning and treatment of leather, suede, fur and specialist items.
Download the consent formMaterials
The major distinction between leather types originates with the animal that the hide came from. The general rule is: the larger the animal, the thicker and heavier the leather.
The toughest of the hides — used in shoes, furnishings and jackets. The leather is on the stiff side and offers excellent abrasion resistance and protection, but at the expense of weight, drape and comfort. You will often find it used in motorcycle protective gear and biker styles where toughness is the prime consideration. Jackets made of cow hide can take a long time to wear in. Of the two, buffalo hide has more grain than cow.
Finer-grained, more supple and lighter in weight than cow but still tough and durable, this leather is often described as having a buttery feel. Sheep hides offer a good balance between comfort, style and strength. They particularly suit jacket styles where suppleness is important — bomber jackets, blazers and reefers.
Cheap and not particularly cheerful. The leather made from pig skin is thin, plasticy with a shiny finish and very poor durability. Pigskin is often used when price is the most important factor, so we recommend you avoid it where possible. Be particularly suspicious of leather jackets retailing for less than £100 — pig may have been used to keep the price down.
Finishes
Once you've established the type of hide, the next step is to look at the tanning process applied to it. Different processes produce distinct finishes that affect both the handle and the appearance of the leather.
